The Balancing Act of Protective Styles – Black Women for Wellness

As a Black woman who balances work, family, and a social life, finding a protective hairstyle is a must.

Hair matters. It’s an extension of my personality, but it can be the bane of my existence when my hair is not cooperating. As Black women, our styling choices, textures, access, and cost can make a huge difference in whether we show up confidently as our best self or retreat.

Lately, I’ve been reflecting on my braids, tension (risk of over-manipulation and traction alopecia), toxic hair-products, and the advances that make me creatively think about future styles. I want to share my perspective on the pros and cons of braided styles, and how recent articles triggered me to dig deeper into what I accept and challenge when it comes to my hair.

The Good

First, let’s talk about the upside.

Braids, twists, and cornrows… these styles are rooted in culture and community, and work for my life in so many ways. From my mother and aunts braiding my hair as a child to the first time I saw Moesha’s box braids and Alicia Keys cornrows, I knew they would be a staple for me with staying power. 

Protective styles, when done correctly, help reduce daily manipulation, heat damage, and chemical damage that many Black women and girls endure in the name of professionalism and assimilation. Braids are also an extended connection to culture, heritage, and identity.

I wish I could speak to the Crown Act, as well as the historic legacy of braids and cornrows that serve as an agricultural tool with seeds hidden inside among other things, but I digress. 

Braids save me time in the morning and offer flexibility especially during the summer months when I opt to exercise or have a pool day. In a BWW context, when we talk about wellness, that includes our hair health which encompasses the scalp, the follicles, etc. It’s important to note that protective doesn’t automatically mean risk‐free. That takes us to some of the cons.

The Bad

When braids are installed too tightly, when styles are left in too long, when edges and scalp are under constant stress without moisture, it’s a switch from a protective style to a stress style. What was meant to give relief starts to cause damage. We’ve all seen when you notice the white tips of a hair follicle in the mirror and are filled with instant anger. One of the major consequences is traction or tension alopecia (hair loss caused by persistent pulling or tension on hair follicles). Learn more here.

Another risk that many of us don’t talk about enough is what we put on our hair when we get braids and cornrows with synthetic hair. An article from the Observer reports that commonly used synthetic braiding hair was found to contain carcinogens and heavy metals.

The article states:

“All 10 brands of synthetic braiding hair tested contained multiple carcinogens… Three products contained benzene, a known carcinogen that causes acute myeloid leukemia.”

Additionally, an article earlier this year from the Harvard Chan School flagged synthetic braiding hair as containing dangerous chemicals like benzene, lead, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in all ten products tested. What this means for me, working in wellness, is that even our so called protective styles may carry hidden toxins. It makes me think… What is my hair coming into contact with? What is my scalp absorbing? How long is my exposure or cumulative exposure? This is especially relevant for me because I wear braids repeatedly.

Reading articles like the piece from The Observer feels like a wake-up call. The revelation that my trusted styles might hide serious health hazards makes me pause. We often celebrate braids as a safe haven compared to chemical relaxers (which themselves have documented health issues).

But now I have to take a second look when it comes to materials, manufacturing, toxicity, and how long I keep my braids in.

It forces a reframing… what is protective and safe? It’s a public‐health matter, a racial‐justice matter because Black women are disproportionately using these products and styles. The risks are not equal. It also raises questions of regulation, transparency, and access to non‐toxic/safer alternatives. 

However, this is light at the end of the hair tunnel with innovations green hair alternatives and new tech like Halo Braid.

At first glance, this Madame Norie article about innovation in braiding might feel unrelated to the wellness risks above, but actually it ties in. This feature describes Halo Braid, founded by Yinka Ogunbiyi, as an automated braiding device that reduces time, as well as strain on stylists and clients.

This is a great sign that our haircare world is evolving and that there are opportunities to make braids better for our health. If stylists aren’t bending for hours, if the scalp isn’t under extreme tension for long periods, if the hair installation is more efficient and less damaging, then that’s a real win.

My Advice 

As I need to become a better advocate for my hair, I want to encourage other Black women and girls to:

Be intentional with braids and protective styles

Ask your stylist to rebraid and loosen the tension if your braids are too tight or your edges and hairline feel pulled? Set a realistic timeframe for wear:  leaving braids in too long increases risk of tension and scalp issues. Clean your scalp regularly, moisturize, protect the edges, give the follicles a break between major styles. Monitor: if you notice thinning edges, bald spots, constant headache or scalp soreness seek help.

Be informed about hair product materials

Ask your stylist what kind of hair extension or synthetic braid hair is being used? Is it from a trusted brand? Has it been tested? If synthetic hair smells chemical-y, irritates your scalp or lungs…these are red flags. Consider alternatives: human hair (though that may have its own issues), plant-based braiding hair, high‐quality brands.

I’m excited by stories like Halo Braid. I am here for new technology and braiding innovation. Here’s my bottom line… braids will always be top tier in my book. They can be protective and expressive, but they’re not automatically safe or immune to risk.

Click here to learn more about what BWW is doing in the beauty justice space, and visit our events page to attend an upcoming Salon Sessions on December 8th.