This May Be Colorado’s Last Affordable Ski Town—and It Also Has One of the Most Gorgeous Trains in the U.S.

When you think of Colorado mountain towns, skiing hotspots like Aspen, Vail, or Breckenridge might come to mind. But amid the rugged San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, the former mining community of Durango, Colorado, is one of the last bastions of affordable skiing in the state—with easy access to fresh powder and all the Old West charm you could ask for.

Often overlooked for its splashier Centennial State cousins, Durango is located near one of the country’s most reasonably priced ski resorts. Take it from me—I’ve been skiing nearly as long as I’ve been able to walk, and I’ve visited Durango since I was a kid. But even if you’re not into snow, there are plenty of other things to do around town, from rafting on the Animas River to hiking Mesa Verde National Park to admiring the views along the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which you may recognize from “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.” Durango is always a good choice to visit, no matter the time of year or what you plan to do.

And though it’s long flown under most travelers’ radars, Durango has recently seen a well-deserved spike in visitors. The small Durango-La Plata Country Airport (DRO) reported its busiest summer ever in 2024.

“A few years ago, I would have said we were relatively off the beaten path for adventures,” says Tori Ossola. A Durango resident of almost two decades, Ossola has served as the general manager at the historic Strater Hotel since 2018, and also sits on Durango’s tourism board. “We have been discovering that the Covid-19 pandemic brought light to the off-the-beaten-path places. Durango was one of them, and we certainly benefited from having that exposure.”

While Durango might not be as quiet as it once was, the town still maintains a decidedly down-to-earth atmosphere. Forget the crowds of other Rocky Mountain destinations—Durango gives visitors a warm Colorado welcome, and then some.

“Durango has a lot of great cultural experiences but no ego that you might get with the other towns,” says Rachel Welsh, destination communication strategist for Visit Durango. “It’s a very approachable place, and it’s easy to feel at home here.”

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Durango, Colorado.

Best Hotels & Resorts

The Leland House

The Leland House is a stylish luxury boutique housed in a 1927 residence. Dog-friendly and environmentally minded, Leland House has 11 unique rooms, studios, and suites that are 100 percent powered by the southern Colorado sun. In the morning, grab coffee and freshly baked pastries at the on-site Lola’s Place to fuel up for your adventures around Durango.

Strater Hotel

The red-brick Strater Hotel has been a quintessential part of downtown Durango since 1887. Inside, 88 unique rooms with vintage furnishings and original art whisk guests back in time—with the addition of modern comforts like plush mattresses and crisp linens, of course. 

After checking in, tour the lobby and halls to soak up some of that history. The on-site spa and three different restaurants (the Mahogany Grille, Diamond Belle Saloon, and The Office Spiritorium) will round out your stay with wellness treatments plus great eats and drinks.

General Palmer Hotel

Dating back to 1898, the General Palmer Hotel still serves much the same purpose as it did over a century ago: it still houses guests who arrive by the Durango & Silverton railroad, which deposits passengers at the depot next door. The decor channels the style and substance of the Victorian era, but all of the amenities have been brought into the 21st century, complimentary breakfast included.

The Rochester Hotel

Once a public boarding house known as the Peeples Hotel, The Rochester Hotel has been thoroughly revamped into a 15-room property with luxury touches. Guests can even book pet-friendly rooms if needed. Kick off your visit at the Peeples Bar, where you’ll find a menu of cocktails, natural wines, and beers with a view of the Rochester gardens.

Best Restaurants

El Moro Spirits and Tavern

Step inside this former saloon for a menu of creative craft drinks and food that spotlights seasonal, local ingredients. El Moro turns typical tavern fare on its head, with eats like rainbow trout, pork sugo, and duck confit biscuits and gravy on offer. As for drinks, consider ordering a lavender gin and tonic or a Colorado mule from the specialty menu. 

Steamworks Brewing Company

A trip to Colorado calls for a stop at at least one craft brewery, so head to the popular Steamworks Brewing Company for a taste of Durango’s brewing scene. Emphasis on “popular”—you may have to wait for a table, but that’s just a testament to the food and drinks here. Don’t worry; you’ll be washing down Southwestern-style pizzas and hefty burgers with a pint of Lizard Head Red Ale or Steam Engine Lager before you know it.

Jean Pierre Bakery & Wine Bar

The downtown Jean Pierre Bakery & Wine Bar is an ideal stop for breakfast or a quick pick-me-up. “We have some really awesome coffee and pastry shops here, and Jean-Pierre would be my favorite,” says Ossola. “They’re a totally authentic French bakery. The pastries are amazing and the coffee is the best.”

Stop by first thing in the morning to snag a hefty stuffed croissant for a hike, or a creamy café au lait to wake you up for a fishing trip on the Animas River. If you have extra time, grab a table to try one of Jean Pierre’s full meals, like the country French breakfast or the crab and asparagus crepes.

Oscar’s Cafe

Though the 1950s diner-style decor here might seem out of place among Durango’s western-themed eateries, rest assured that Oscar’s Cafe has more than earned its spot as one of the top restaurants in town. A favorite among locals, Oscar’s dishes up classics like reuben sandwiches, burgers, and omelets for breakfast and lunch. The cafe opens early, too, making it the perfect stop before a day of skiing or exploring Mesa Verde National Park.

Best Shopping

White Rabbit Books & Curiosities

It’s all too easy to get sucked down the rabbit hole at White Rabbit Books & Curiosities, an independent bookstore chock full of odds and ends. You can browse a selection of used and new volumes, shop for gifts, and even catch a live music show during the summer.

Animas Trading Co.

This homey boutique is a one-stop shop for all things Durango. Whether you’re looking for some locally made jewelry as a souvenir of your trip or some fragrant soaps to share with your family and friends back home, Animas Trading Co. has it all. Dogs are welcome at this retailer, too.

Old Colorado Vintage

Coveting that local mountain chic look? Head to Old Colorado Vintage to find a curated selection of Western-style duds, including deadstock hats, shirts, and jeans from some of the hippest brands around. You’re sure to come away with something interesting, whether it’s a leather fringe jacket or some well-seasoned workwear.

Durango Antique Market

Hunt for bargains and hidden gems at the Durango Antique Market, a downtown storefront with more than 20 different vendors. Between vintage jewelry, retro furniture, Southwestern memorabilia, and much more, you might want to set aside a whole afternoon to peruse the booths here.

Pine Needle Mountaineering

If you’re planning to hit the trails, river, or ski slopes during your visit to Durango, Pine Needle Mountaineering should be your first stop. This outdoor gear store carries dozens of different brands, including Big Agnes, La Sportiva, Darn Tough, and Stio, so you can easily pick up a new pair of climbing shoes or replace the sun hoodie you forgot at home.

Best Things to Do

Explore Mesa Verde National Park.

Thousands of years ago, the 52,000-plus acres now known as Mesa Verde National Park were home to the Ancestral Pueblo People, who built a series of sophisticated stone dwellings in the cliffs here. Many of those structures still stand today, accessible to visitors on foot. Pack sunscreen and extra drinking water, and stop by the visitor center to learn more about the Indigenous peoples who once carved a living out of this desert environment.

Ride the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is much more than a tourist attraction—it’s the beating heart of Durango. “The train goes right through town,” says Welsh. “It’s the same tracks that were used in the early 1800s to transport ore from Silverton to Durango.”

These days, visitors can hop aboard the steam locomotive for scenic rides through the San Juan Mountains. Routes follow the Animas River for roughly 45 miles between Durango and Silverton, Colorado, a journey that will take around three and a half hours each way—though it may feel much faster when you’re aboard. “The train [goes through] areas of the San Juans that can’t be accessed via car, so you’re carving through these beautiful vistas along the Animas River, these sheer drops and waterfalls,” Welsh says. 

Though the views from the railroad are gorgeous year-round, they’re especially spectacular during the fall, when the aspen and cottonwood trees along the route change color in a vibrant display of golds, reds, and oranges. Just be sure to book your fall foliage ride well in advance, since these tickets go quickly.

Ski Purgatory Resort.

Despite its name, Purgatory Resort is heaven on earth for skiers. Located 30 minutes from Durango, Purgatory has reasonably priced lift tickets, lessons, and rentals that turn a ski day into a fun trip rather than a budgeting exercise. “It’s not super expensive,” says Welsh. “So, if you want to just go up for a day and try skiing or snowboarding, it’s at most $70, and kids 12 and under get to ski free.”

With 105 trails and more than 2,000 feet of vertical drop, Purgatory has plenty on hand for the experienced skier, too. That includes après options, as you can grab a post-ski drink and bite to eat at the base village.

Raft the Animas River

Colorado’s world-famous whitewater includes the Animas River, which flows by Durango. Local outfitters like Mild to Wild Rafting, Mountain Waters Rafting, and Durango Rivertrippers & Adventure Tours guide family-friendly rafting excursions down Class II and Class III whitewater. Between rapids, you’ll get to enjoy stunning views of the San Juan Mountains.

Soak in the Hot Springs

Southwestern Colorado holds one of the state’s best-kept secrets—a series of natural mineral hot springs touted for their health and wellness properties. You’ll have to determine the springs’ exact benefits for yourself, but regardless, a long, warm soak never goes amiss. “The hot springs are really approachable,” says Welsh. “And it doesn’t have that sulfur smell, which I like.”

Book a soak at Durango Hot Springs Resort, or, if you’re in the mood for a more rustic experience, head to the free-to-access Pinkerton Hot Springs to goggle at the brilliant colors and fascinating travertine formations. 

How to Get There

One of the most exciting and scenic ways to get to Durango is to ride the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad from Silverton.

But, if you’re coming from another part of the country, Durango-La Plata County Airport has routes to and from Dallas, Denver, and Phoenix on American Airlines and United Airlines. However, Ossola notes, you’ll need to make certain accommodations in advance if you are flying into the La Plata County Airport.

“If you’re coming in by air, make sure you’re planning your transportation from the airport ahead of time,” she says. “We’re not a world-class major airport like Denver International Airport, so we don’t have taxi cabs and Ubers just waiting for people to bring them into town, and we have a very limited amount of rental vehicles.”

With this in mind, if you’d prefer to fly into a major airport and drive from there, book tickets to Colorado Springs Airport (COS) or Albuquerque International Sunport (ABQ), which are 5.5 hours and 3.5 hours away from Durango, respectively.

How to Get Around

A car will be the most convenient way to get around Durango, especially if you plan to take trips out to Mesa Verde National Park or Purgatory Resort. However, you’ll have a few other transportation options closer to town.

Like many places in southwestern Colorado, Durango is both walkable and bike-friendly. The town also has a public transportation system, Durango Transit, with fixed-route trolleys and buses that service local trailheads and river put-ins during the summer months. 

Best Time to Visit

In my opinion, there’s never really a bad time to visit Durango, though you may want to keep some seasonal considerations in mind as you plan your trip. Spring brings wildflowers and mild weather, while summer entails long days best spent out on the water or hiking trails. Fall is ideal for leaf-peepers, and winter, of course, draws out the skiers and snowboarders. 

Still not sure when to go? You might want to time your visit to coincide with a local event. “If people think they’re coming through the Southwest, check out our events calendar,” says Ossola. “We have a lot of fantastic events in Durango. We have craft brewing festivals, art festivals, music festivals, and those happen throughout the year.”